Nothing enhances cooking more than fresh herbs. Once you have incorporated a herb garden into your landscape, and experienced the simple joy of picking the flavors that will bring compliments showering upon you for your culinary expertise, there is no going back.

Ah, but what about winter? Hopefully you have frozen some of your summer crop, but it still is not quite the same as freshly picked herbs. If you have a south-facing window, you're equipped with most of what you need in order to grow an indoor herb garden. Begin with indoor-friendly herbs such as sage, mint, rosemary, parsley, bay leaf, thyme, chives, garlic and oregano. Basil, dill and coriander should be started from seeds, and mint, rosemary and bay leaf should be rooted from cuttings.

If you're starting with seedlings which you have purchased from the nursery, they will need to be acclimated to lower light conditions. New leaves that are accustomed to the lower light must be produced in order for the plant to survive. Most herbs require an absolute minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight, which a window with southern exposure should provide. Assist with the addition of grow lights, placed about 6 to 9 inches above the tops of the plants. Generally speaking, your herbs will prefer temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees F. However, basil is such a sun and heat lover, it will thrive if given 16 hours of artificial light. I guarantee that the pesto and spaghetti sauce that is seasoned with the fresh basil from your indoor herb garden will make the effort well worth it. Place the plants that need the greatest amount of light in the center of the window, directly beneath the grow lights. Your mint, parsley and rosemary will require less light, therefore they should be placed at the sides, farther away from the strongest point of light.

Use separate pots for each plant; this allows for each plant to have air flow, and if a problem occurs with one plant, it is easily removed from the mix. Unglazed terra cotta is the preferred pot as it is porous, thus allowing moisture and air to pass through. Roots need air; if gasses in the root zone are not able to move, and watering prevents the roots from breathing, root rot will set in. So, be sure that there are drainage holes in the bottom of your pots to allow excess water to drain. When first prepping the pots, DO NOT use soil from your garden, no matter how gloriously your outdoor plants grow in it. Instead, use a high-quality potting soil with organic fertilizer mixed in, and add some perlite. Fertilize with a liquid fish emulsion at half strength or a 20-20-20 chemical formulation about once a month. Mist on occasion, particularly rosemary. The conditions inside your house will affect the frequency of watering. Using your finger, check the soil. If it feels dry to the touch, water thoroughly until the water comes out of the drainage holes in the bottom. Herbs such as bay leaf, thyme, oregano and sage should dry out completely between watering while mint and rosemary prefer a little more moisture.

When harvesting from an indoor herb garden, a certain delicacy is called for; because indoor herbs tend to reach for the light and become leggy, it is best to pinch them at the growing tips, thereby forcing a bushier growth form.

Experiment with a light-hearted sense of fun; fresh herbs are by nature givers of a unique flavoring to our cooking. Add to salads and omelettes; toss a few fresh mint leaves in a pot of hot tea. Gardening and cooking are two sublime pleasures that anyone may enjoy. Nothing enhances cooking more than fresh herbs.

One of the most spectacular winter blooming plants is the Florist's Cineraria (Pericallis x hybrida). What makes these plants so special is that the deep green, slightly lobed leaves of these colorful beauties are often completely covered by immense clusters of velvety daisy-like flowers for their entire growing season.

These bright and bushy plants have an amazing kick of contrasting colors. The blossoms may be white, pink, red, blue, purple or violet, with blue or white centers and rings of contrasting colors that create a rainbow of hues for any sunny windowsill.

These beautiful plants are native to the Canary Islands off the coast of Portugal. Annuals that can bloom indoors from as early as December to as late as May, they are usually discarded after their blooming season is over. But few plants can beat these beauties for color while they are doing their thing.

Cinerarias do best in a bright room or sunny windowsill. They are fairly thirsty plants, due to the large volume of flowers they produce, and like to be kept moist (but not wet) at all times. They need only occasional feeding while in bloom, with a water soluble plant food.

So, if you need a little help shaking off the doldrums of winter, consider purchasing some cinerarias to brighten up your home today!

Keeping your houseplants healthy during winter months may seem difficult. Light from windows is reduced, days are shorter and humidity may be lower due to heating. But by making a few changes, you can help keep your houseplants healthy.

Keeping things light

In winter, your plants receive sunlight for less time and in less intensity. Houseplants native to rainforests that are used to lower light will be fine with that, but most plants need more light. Try to move your plants near a brighter window (S/SW exposure) to get them more sunlight.

If you have no brighter windows (due to shade trees or apartment living), you might want to consider the purchase of plant lamps that are designed to provide the full spectrum light your plants need. They can be mounted under shelves, over plants or on specially-designed plant stands. Leave them on about eight hours a day, and they'll give your plants the light they need.

You can also use cool fluorescent bulbs as close as 6 inches from the top of plants.

Temperature

Most plants do not do well when subjected to rapid fluctuations in temperature. Keep them away from hot air sources and cold drafts alike. Run ceiling fans on low if the house is closed up. Fans break up stagnant air; that's healthier for both you and your plants.

Humidity

Some symptoms of low humidity are brown leaf tips and wilting. Low humidity makes your plants work harder to get moisture from the air and soil, as well as keep what they have inside.

One way to give your plants some extra humidity is to mist them two or three times a day. The water will evaporate off the leaves and provide a cloud of higher humidity around the plant. For a less labor-intensive method, put a layer of pebbles in the bottom of a tray and fill the tray with just enough water to cover the bottom of the tray (below the top of the pebbles). Place potted plants in the tray.

Other Tips

Fertilizing should be done less often for most plants in winter.

Give your plants a good washing. Dirt, dust, grease, and other particles can settle on leaves. Dirty leaves can't absorb as much sunlight as clean ones. Gently wipe clean the leaves with a soft sponge or cloth dipped in plain water. Sturdier plants can even be given a quick shower in the bathroom with tepid water.

In 1875, Charles Darwin wrote the seminal treatise on carnivorous plants; ironically, botanists, including Linnaeus, had previously rejected the idea. Darwin recognized that carnivorous plants adapted to growth in places where the soil was thin or poor in nutrients, especially nitrogen, by trapping and consuming insects.

But petunias? While they have sticky hairs that can capture insects, they probably don’t have the ability to digest the trapped insects, or to absorb the breakdown products. Tomato and potato plants also have fine hairs that catch and kill some small insects, which then fall to the ground, degrading into nourishment for the plant. This is known as “passive carnivory” and is one part of a sliding scale of carnivorous activity in the plant world.

The seductive title of Professor Chase et al’s paper, “Murderous plants: Victorian Gothic, Darwin and Modern Insights into Vegetable Carnivory” would have us look beyond the commonly accepted carnivorous plants, which employ five basic trapping mechanisms. These are pitfall traps that trap prey in a rolled leaf containing digestive enzymes; flypaper traps that use a sticky mucilage; snap traps that utilize rapid leaf movements to capture their prey; bladder traps which generate an internal “vacuum” that sucks in prey; and lobster-pot traps that have inward-pointing hairs forcing prey to move towards a digestive organ. The degree of activity or passivity depends on whether the plant incorporates movement to aid in the capture of prey.

Plants commonly considered to be carnivorous are North American pitcher plants which belong to the genus Sarracenia and which form upright, tubular leaves; the sundew plant (Drosera capensis) which is covered with dense, sticky hairs that trap the prey which will then be enzymatically digested and absorbed by the plant; and its relative, the Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula, Droseraceae) which employs a snap trap formed by hinged leaves fringed with stiff hairs. As the leaf blade closes, it traps the insect behind the intermeshed hairs.

For gardeners, it’s fun to delve deeper into the science of botany. The next time you’re planting six-packs of petunias in your window boxes, best to not turn your back on them.

Gloxinia (Sinningia Speciosa) can make a colorful addition to your garden during the dreary days of winter. Their massive, deep-throated flowers come in many color combinations and put on quite a show.

Gloxinias, native to Brazil, are related to African violets. Their luxuriant, quilted, velvety leaves can grow up to six inches long, and they produce ruffled bell-shaped flowers in shades of white, pink, red, blue, and purple with contrasting edges.

With a small amount of attention and care, you'll be able to get this tuberous plant to re-bloom several times before it goes dormant until the following growing season. Gloxinias do best in consistent indoor temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees. They bloom best in a bright but indirect light location. Growing in low light will cause the flowers to be small and pale.

Gloxinias prefer moderately moist soil--but take care not to overwater, as this can prevent buds from developing. Try to lift the leaves before watering and allow the water to enter directly to the soil. Splashing water on the leaves can cause yellow spots.

Water thoroughly when the soil surface feels dry to the touch. Do not allow your plants to stand in water. If using bowls underneath your pots, make sure to empty the water from the bowl after each watering.

It is important to feed your plants regularly (every two weeks) while your plant is growing strongly and blooming.

Most plants will bloom for 6 to 8 weeks and then take a short break before producing a new set of blooms. Discontinue feeding once the plants start dying back before entering dormancy. Gently remove the spent blooms after each flowering cycle.

It is best to repot gloxinias when they go dormant, so the plants can produce new growth in a larger pot with fresh soil. Then sit back and wait for new growth to appear for the following season and enjoy all over again!

Outside of the easily-identified blueberries and strawberries, the world of berries can be very confusing. You have blackberries, black raspberries, red raspberries, and yellow raspberries. And don't forget boysenberries, loganberries and marionberries, which are all closely related. How do you tell them apart? Berries whose core stays intact are blackberries. Berries that lose the core and resemble a thimble are raspberries. But then...a few berries are a cross between the two!

The similarities don't stop there. All bear fruit on two-year-old wood, except for the ever-bearing raspberries that also fruit on first year growth. These are also called two crop raspberries because they bear a late summer or fall crop on the first year growth and a second crop the following spring on the two-year-old wood.

Different types of wood? What's that all about? Ok, it may help clear up a lot of confusion about blackberry and raspberry culture if one remembers that after flowering and fruiting, any cane that bore fruit dies back to the crown. All the new growth will rise out from primary buds just below the soil line.

Now here's the good news, blackberries, raspberries and any other favorites will thrive in most locations and soil types, but good drainage is desirable with most varieties. Just give them some room to ramble because they do like to spread out. As far as cold-hardiness goes, raspberries tolerate very cold temperatures better than blackberries.

Most berries like being fed at blooming time, with a follow-up feeding in early fall after the plants have finished fruiting. Just use a well-balanced fruit food. They prefer staying moist, and should be watered regularly if rainfall is insufficient.

The new canes that grow out each spring will not bear fruit until the following summer when they are two years old. After harvest, the two-year-old fruiting canes will start to die back and should be removed as close to the ground as possible without injuring the new canes.

In mild climates berries can be trained to stakes or trellises in late summer or early fall, after the fruiting canes have been removed. In colder climates, the canes should be left on the ground over winter--making them less likely to be damaged by cold. The ideal time to "spring train" is after the danger of freezing weather and before the leaf buds begin expanding.

We have berry plants that grow well in our local area. The bottom line is that all berries are easy to grow and they taste great. So don't stress about all your different choices. Just plant some berries and enjoy!

How should you prune a Japanese maple?

Answer:

Japanese maples can be lightly tip-pruned during the summer months to control new growth or runaway water shoots, but save the major pruning for December or January, when the tree is fully dormant. Do not prune later than February (or when the leaf buds start swelling), because the tree can bleed quite severely and become weakened.

All Japanese maples have "eyes" on the branches, where the leaves were attached during the growing season. These "eyes" are small half moon swellings, spaced every 1-3" along the branches. Each "eye" faces a different direction, rotating along the branches.

Pruning 1/4" above a particular eye will make the tree branch out in that direction the following year. You can control the shape and direction of the tree each year simply by deciding which eyes to prune above.

Avoid pruning beyond the previous year's cuts. Always allow at least 2 "eyes" of new growth each year to remain on the tree. Pruning more severely can lead to knurled and stunted growth, with many tiny shoots coming out from the same spot. If a large branch needs to be pruned to thin out the tree and allow more light, prune it completely off. Make sure to seal all cuts larger than 1/2" in diameter with a pruning sealer.