Eating great-tasting fresh greens out of the garden is one of the special pleasures one gets from growing one's own vegetables. But you don't need an acre plot of land to do it in--even a small area will work just fine. With just a little planning and ingenuity, you can grow salad greens just about anywhere.

All you need is a large planter box, or several smaller ones, if you plan on moving plants in and out. Put in some of our great potting soil and you're in business. If you don't like to bend over, add legs to the sides of the box, or place it on a table--and you can have a raised planter at just the right height. You can grow from seed or transplant seedlings, whichever you prefer.

Salad greens perform their very best during the cooler seasons. You can even make your planter look colorful by combining different varieties of lettuce, spinach and field greens in the same box. Make sure to feed your greens some organic plant food on a monthly basis to help bring out the best flavor.

Many palms are slow-growing, and consequently, large specimens are often expensive. But don't be deterred from growing palms; if you provide the right conditions, even small plants will gradually become impressive specimens.

Not all palms grow large, and many are compact enough for a tabletop. Some are even small enough to use in a bottle garden while young.

The most common mistake is to regard all palms as lovers of hot sunshine and desert-dry air. They often have to cope with both in countries where they grow outdoors, but as houseplants you want them to remain in good condition with unblemished leaves.

• Keep cool in winter, but not less than 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Keep out of direct sunshine unless you know that your palm revels in the sun (a few do).
• Use a good potting soil and ensure that the drainage is good.
• Repot only when it is absolutely essential, as palms dislike root disturbance. Always ensure that the new soil is firmly compacted if you do repot.
• Water liberally in spring and summer, sparingly in winter.
• Mist the plants frequently with water and sponge the leaves occasionally with water.
• Do not use an aerosol leaf shine.

To some of us, the pansy/viola is a happy, smiling face reminding us of a gardener friend from long ago. The first sign of that special flower brings a smile to our face and warmth to our heart. After all, this flower is known as the "pixie" of the plant world. How perfect is that to have in your winter/spring gardens!

Botanically speaking, members of the genus Viola, which includes the pansy, viola and violets, are perennials. We just happen to treat them as annuals. The varieties that we grow are happiest in cool weather. Planting them now ensures wonderful color in your spring gardens.

There are many different cultivars of pansies and violas offering a wide range of colors and flower sizes: colors from white, yellow, apricot, violet, blue-purples, dusty rose and combinations of all of these colors! The flower sizes range from 1-4 inches.

Pansies are best in sun to light shade. If you plant them in deep shade, they will grow, but not reward you with as many flowers. Plant them toward the front of your flower beds, along with your shrubs and other flowering bedding plants. You may not want to put them too close to the edge if your planter is next to your grass--scary weed whackers may chop off their heads! These plants love to trail and would also be beautiful in raised beds, planters and window boxes.

Here are a few planting and care tips:

Amend the soil before planting to provide good drainage around the roots. Use a good potting soil--not garden soil--if you have them in planters.

Space them about 6" apart.

Water deeply, but be careful to not overwater. Don't leave them in soggy soil.

Mulching around the pansies with 2 inches of organic material will help conserve moisture, and reduce weed growth.

Pansies are mostly free of diseases and pests, but if you've had a problem in an area of your garden with pansies, switch and grow them in another area for a year or so.

And here is your number one rule: start your morning with a stroll into your garden to start your day with smiling faces. Oh sure, you can take your cup of coffee or tea along with you, too.

As Henry David Thoreau wrote, "In Wildness Is the Preservation of the World."

We can choose to co-exist with the wildlife around us, enjoying their antics and quirky personalities, or we can run around in circles attempting to rid our properties of them. The latter is an exercise in futility; they preceded us, and they've learned how to best us at every turn.

Case in point, the squirrel: an aerialist extraordinaire, its large tail makes it the most recognized mammal on Earth. While the first gray squirrels can be traced back 50 million years via fossil remains found in North America, their name can be traced back to the ancient Greeks; Aristotle called them "skiouros" with "skia" meaning shade, and "oura" meaning tail. Thus the meaning "he who sits in the shadow of his tail" was recorded.

As they do not hibernate and can have a lifespan of 6 years (given little auto traffic and a reliable food source), feeding our furry friends not only aids the animals, it guarantees an endless source of entertainment. Tree seed is the most important element of their diet, including pine seeds, beech nuts, acorns and hazel nuts. They also thrive on flowers, berries, and shoots, which provide a year-round availability of food. Gray squirrels love maize and mixed squirrel food, but you'll also find them sharing the bird feeders you've set out for your avian visitors. Because of the communal nature of bird feeders, to prevent disease transmission, wash your feeders every two weeks or so, first emptying them, then scrubbing them clean with a weak bleach and water solution. Thoroughly rinse, and allow to dry before refilling.

Squirrels are most active during their mating season, in late winter. The ritual of the chase occurs through the trees at top speed, incorporating breathtaking acrobatics. They communicate using a series of chirps and tail gestures that denote everything from laughter to alarm.

If you've ever attempted to purchase a "squirrel-proof" bird feeder, you'll know that it doesn't exist. These wily creatures will not quit until they have out-baffled every baffle ever invented. There are numerous feeders made specifically for squirrels, but this gardener has found that making it too easy for them takes away too much of their pleasure. However, one very easy-to-make feeder that they will appreciate can be constructed as follows: take a piece of wood 2" by 2", about 2 1/2 feet in length, skew long nails into it at staggered intervals, and then impale ears of corn on each nail. Pop an eye bolt into the top, hang it from a tree branch, and let the frivolity begin! (They might even stay out of the bird feeders for a few minutes.)

Oranges may or may not be the most favored fruit by consumers but they certainly are the most widely planted fruit in the world. Filled with vitamins and refreshing to eat, oranges are easy to grow in the home garden. And best of all, they ripen at a time (late winter to early spring) when deciduous trees are just coming out of dormancy.

Thanks to continuous improvements in breeding, there are more varieties than ever to choose from. But which one(s) should you select? First decide whether your main priority is for eating or juicing--that makes a big difference. While you can eat any orange and squeeze juice out of all of them, certain varieties just lend themselves better to each category.

For eating, navel-type oranges such as Robertson, Washington, or Lane Late Navel oranges are easiest to peel. For juicing, nothing beats the Valencia and Midknight Valencia oranges. The Trovita is perhaps the best all-purpose and easiest to grow. If you are looking for distinct flavor and color, consider blood oranges like the Moro, Sanguinelli or Tarrocco. For something completely different you might want to try the Cara Cara Pink Navel orange or the fabled Shamouti orange.

Another way to help your decision-making is to consider ripening dates. The Cara Cara, Robertson and Washington Navel oranges ripen from winter to early spring. All of the Blood oranges ripen in spring, needing both cold nights to turn color and warm days for sugars to form. Then come the Trovita and Shamouti oranges in late spring and early summer. Both the Valencia and Midknight Valencia take about 15 months to ripen and are ready to harvest in summer. Finally, the Lane Late navel orange ripens late summer into fall. With a little planning you can harvest oranges almost year-round!

Like all citrus, oranges prefer full sun locations and soil that drains well. When planting, make sure to add an organic soil amendment to your soil. If drainage is a problem, add sand to the mix as well. All oranges benefit from regular feedings. We recommend applying a good citrus fertilizer every two months spring through fall. In the winter months, switch to a 0-10-10 fertilizer. This helps strengthen the plant against cold damage, while also helping to develop and sweeten the fruit.

Oranges not only taste good, they look good in the garden. Their bright, shiny green foliage makes a welcome addition to any garden. If you are short on space, consider purchasing an orange grown on dwarf rootstock--you can even plant those in a container.

by Tamara Galbraith

During the winter months, when more plants are indoors, gardeners need to be on the lookout for a couple of tough pests that, once settled in, can be hard to control.

Fungus gnats, the near-microscopic flying insects that feed and breed within damp organic matter in potting soil, can actually be a problem any time of year. These tiny flying pests can spread pathogens, chew on roots and be a general nuisance. Fungus gnats' favorite hangout is the fungus existing in moist, organic soil, so the best way to battle these bugs is by letting your houseplants dry in-between waterings. However, some overwintering houseplants--like those lovely amaryllis bulbs many of us were forcing during the holidays--like to remain somewhat moist. So...what to do?

A good drench of an indoor plant pest control product on the soil is a good start, and a layer of sand on top of the potting soil will also help. The sand helps prevent the fungus gnats from reaching and subsequently laying eggs in the potting soil, but still allows moisture to reach the roots.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, spider mites can become a terrible problem for indoor plants when conditions are too dry, which is often the case during cold days when we have the heat on. If you notice a plant's leaves shriveling and dropping, or webbing in between stems and leaves, you've probably got a spider mite problem.

Again, a good pest control product will help. However, the humidity around the affected plant will need to be addressed to keep mites from returning:
• Keep plants away from the hot blast of furnace output vents.
• Spray sensitive indoor plants with water daily, if possible.
• Move all sensitive plants together and run a humidifier near them to keep air moisture levels high.

How can I tell if a plant is fully rooted?

Answer:

Stand back, look your plant straight in the eye, and ask it! No beating around the bush (forgive the pun); simply ask it in a straightforward manner.

No, seriously, most plants take at least 3-4 months--sometimes a complete growing season in colder climates--to become rooted and established.

If you pull up gently on an established plant, there generally will be no "give." New growth on the plant tips is another sign that your plant is safely on its way.

Incorporating a starter fertilizer into the backfill of the hole and then watering in with a rooting hormone will give your new plants an added boost to help them set down good, solid roots in their new environment.